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Hi Rick my question is regarding the choke coil. Does the coil stop the FR passing through it due to the magnetic field that it sets up and only allowing DC through? Thanks Bill

Thats amazing how that works

Wow really impressive

What a treat to see this and the ingenious repurposing of a high tension coil.

Thats a great little build. Its amazing how much voltage is required to transmit with.

I wonder what heating the heat trace was doing to improve the reception? Interesting find.

Still laughing

Clever fix and thanks for sharing

This realy helps with understanding the relationship and calculations thank you very much.

Thanks its hard to get your head around positive and negative voltages on the same string. The demonstration really shows this well.

A very thorough analysis of this circuit and very intersting indeed.

Great advise using a Q-tip

Great demonstration easy to follow.

what would happen if the capacitor is placed between the two diodes

Another great video. Love the way you explain things.👍

Always kind of wondered about how AC and DC could exist on the same wire. Very interesting, especially how the DC component doesn't cross the cap even though it appears to have been modified by the AC.

Nice visual, thank you Richard!

Great demo!!!!!!!

a dc signal modulated by an ac signal

Thank you for the great video. Kind regards.

Fascinating indeed! Thank You!

This is the first time I've seen somebody demonstrate this in this way, thanks.

Hi Richard, again one of the absolute basics for every electronics hobbyist or professional to know. Thus many thanks (again). Best regards! 18 June 2024.

thank you master, always very interesting!

I wonder, would a tube rectifier circuit behave the same way?

Hi master, does this aplys to ignition coil ground that shares the same path as the 12 volt battery ground on a bike 😊

Nice explanation. You have an idea how to take care (with microcontroller) that the advance is function of the RPM on an engine without battery (F4B Yamaha without starter or battery)

How come AC can still come out of a capacitor where the input is a DC biased AC signal when the voltage never goes in under 0? Wouldn't it just be the current speeding up and slowing down if it's in the positive domain only?

Is there a special reason for using the IRF510? The P-channel IRF9540 is complementary to the N-channel IRF540, so I would expect to see that in the positive stage. The input capacitance is very different between the 510 and the 9540, so it may have some influence on the symmetry.

Very interesting thank you.

What a great clean free of clutter fascinating radio. Thank you very much. I would love to have a Atwater Kent Model 10 with horn speaker.

What software of simulation are you using ?

Very interesting.

What a gift you have for learning so many different skills. Thanks for sharing.

Thats a great find from the flea market and thanks for sharing it.

Thanks for the circuit and the story

Great demonstration thanks helps with understanding the difference in handling different loads

Wow. Thats a great collection of Stromberg-Carlson parts!

Thanks Rick that was very interesting indeed. Great detective work. Thanks for sharing this as it is very useful.

That was great know I understand the importance of a shunt when measuring current with the meter.

I dug out my vintage Sony (ICF- A10W) clock radio that I bought used about 12 years ago. After I bought 12 years ago, I just tested quickly and not sure if I checked the am radio and just stored away. So when I came across it in my storage, I took it home, but heard something loose inside. So I took it apart with just 2 small screws. I found a long metal bar with 2 thin copper wire wrapped around lose and I believe came loose in shipping 12 years ago bc the eBayer left the battery in shipping and when I got it, the radio was playing inside the package. Lol! So bc I didn’t have any glue, I just put the loose bar near where it was attached to the inside corner. And it still shakes but seem not as much as before. But now I’m wondering if the am was already broken or if I had put the buttons back wrong? I managed to not break any of the plastic and careful taking it apart with snapping off anything. That’s the problem with handling something brand new and understanding without breaking it on how that part all go into place. Lol! I’m not that mechanical and don’t understand how things work or what each thing does what. So I get lost and usually don’t even go as far as taking apart or trouble shooting, I always hope for an easy fix or look on RUclips for guidance. So if it having to replace the am part, are they all about the same or are there many? Can I take it jist from an old radio with am? This clock radio I have is a collectors item and I want it to completely work and including the am radio I never use. Lol! Anyway, thanks for the tutorial! Maybe if I re glue tgat metal bar, the Am will start working again. Also, I’ve looked at about 20 of these Sony clock radios used and most just have the fm wore port and not the wire that plugs into it. Perhaps most didn’t need or lost after 40 years and I only saw one unit with the original fm wire. Meaning if I find the fm fm wire, would that help make the am stations to come in? Oh and the end connection is much smaller than the end of the standard headphone jack. So it might be hard to find a replacement.

Good Morning! Thank you for this explanation. I restore vintage stereo consoles and hi-fi's. I seem to encounter plenty of ground loops and it is like voodoo trying to understand why. Your video has helped me understand.

Great tips that I will use at the next swap meet.

I used in conjunction with capacitor in one passive crossover and the results were incredrible

Just wanted to echo the praise of all the others here & add my 2¢ whilst I'm at it. I belong to the Ontario Vintage Radio Association here in Canada, & just recently purchased one of these babies in excellent cosmetic, & I think electrical, condition. Paid just $25CDN for it from our meeting auction; that's about $1.49 in real American $, btw...😉😏 It's a Canadian set, too. It's branded as a Westinghouse, not an RCA! But other than it was built up here (under license?🤔), it's ABSOLUTELY IDENTICAL to your RCA set other than there's a Westinghouse logo in the exact spot where the RCA logo is on yours.🧐 I appreciate that you clarified what voltages you're using for the B & C supplies, as I have very little knowledge & no experience with these pre-Superhet technology sets & I need & appreciate all the knowledge & help that I can get on the subject. The guys in our club that are into restoring these old sets just glibly say 90V RF Amp & O/P stage & 45V for the Detector/1st AF B+, & -5 to -10V for the C-. One fellow likes to use the lowest filament voltages possible to get the set to work in order to protect those ancient filaments gone brittle with old age & high mileage to extend their lives. My thought is that he's wrong & it's a false economy; insufficient voltage will poison a coated filament, likely the same thing would happen with a thoriated tungsten one, & the pure tungsten filaments of WD-11's & UX-199's(?) have such low emission that you likely won't have the luxury of doing this even though it won't damage them! What's your experience? It was nice to see you showing how to use the regeneration ("amplification") control, & that the set has enough juice to drive a horn (which I don't have). I also have enough whiz-dumb from previous electronics adventures to be hesitant about making a high value collectable in excellent condition as a first project to cut my teeth on; maybe I should experiment on another of my recent acquisitions first? I also got in the same auction a gorgeous Freed-Eisemann Neutrodyne set...but I know enough that it isn't a regenerative set but more along the lines of, or just plain is, a TRF set. Another kind of set I don't know how to operate! And not long before I also obtained a near-mint Atwater-Kent Model 30, I think it is. But perhaps my first victim will be a 1920's era kit I bought alongside the A-K, with five 01's in it. The A-K, like its model # implies, uses a half-dozen 30's. So with that background I'll get to my final point: I knew that the Radiola originally used WD-11's. I wasn't told that it could use UX-199's. Either way, I have none of the former & probably not even 4 of the latter that I'd need. I've got plenty of 01's though, although I was surprised to see you making adapters to use them in place of the WD-11's. My Radiola came with a quartet of 30's in it & no adapter sockets in sight! I'm fortunate enough to have a decent supply of these at least... I haven't looked at any Tube Data, but this suggests to me that the 30 might be a plug-in replacement for the WD-11 & if so rather less hassle than making adapters to use 01's & just plain a better alternative. 😂Opinions?

Been following your channel for about 10 years now. Definitely think about making some of your videos a part of the ASMR genre. Soothing voice, can be something like, "Electric ASMR." Keep up the good work, I appreciate all of your content.

Its showing same wave at output as input in Proteus.

Once again great video. I would love to have you as a next door neighbour and watch the setup with the connections to the scope.

This is great another fantastic demonstration.

That really makes it clear. Reading books is one thing but seeing a practical demonstration makes so much more sense. Great teaching aid.